Moda, ideologija i politika: odevanje Jovanke Broz

Abstract

U radu se predstavljaju rezultati istraživanja javnosti vidljivog segmenta odevanja Jovanke Broz. Odeća supruge jugoslovenskog predsednika biće posmatrana kao tehničko sredstvo za demonstraciju propagirane državne ideologije i životnog stila negovanog u socijalizmu. U prvom delu rada jugoslovenska "prva dama" biće posmatrana kao pokroviteljica domaće modne industrije i njena personifikacija. Nakon kritičkog razmatranja teze Malkoma Banarda po kojoj modni i odevni predmeti funkcionišu kao ograde (sredstva diferencijacije između različitih socijalnih kategorija) i mostovi (sredstva identifikacije unutar istih skupina), odeća Jovanke Broz biće analizirana posredstvom metafore mosta. Na kraju rada biće ponuđena komparativna analiza odevanja Žakline Kenedi i Jovanke Broz na osnovu diferencije socijalnih obrazaca životnih stilova negovanih u dva različita društveno-ekonomska sistema.

The paternalistic relationship of Jovanka Broz, the wife of Josip Broz Tito, towards the fashion industry was exemplified in her visits to fashion fairs, shows and presentations of Yugoslav fashion labels she organized for foreign officials. However, it was most evident in the way she dressed. Wearing mostly clothes manufactured and designed in Yugoslav fashion factories, Jovanka Broz was a living advertisement for the relatively young textile and clothing industry of Yugoslavia. However, her clothes were also part of the symbolism surrounding the president Josip Broz. They were manufactured in factories that also produced industrial prêt-à-porter series for the popular masses. Therefore, Jovanka's clothes functioned as a bridge between the social categories of the ruling elite and other citizens. However, despite the intention of the government to use clothes to promote official ideology (classless society), social hierarchy and relations of domination and supremacy were unavoidably established. Namely, Jovanka's clothes were tailored and made-to-measure, while those for the people were ready-made results of massive production. Besides supporting the ruling ideology, Jovanka Broz also used clothes to demonstrate the concept of lifestyle and values propagated in socialism (decency, modesty, promotion of mediocracy and appropriateness under the flag of "culturedness"). Altough she actually did posess privileges and other signs of social distinction, in everyday dressing Jovanka displayed modesty and reservedness. The ethos of conformity made Yugoslavia's first lady the personification of socialist values. In the hierarchical society such as Yugoslav, lifestyles fitting into the propagated system functioned as bridge between polarities.