Између моде и нације: национални костим и репрезентација кнегиња и краљица у Србији 19. века
Between Fashion and Nation: National Costume and Represetation of Princesses and Queens in 19th Century Serbia
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У сплету културолошких значења, одећа као исказ националног идентитета имала је моћан капацитет у сфери владарске представности. Пракса националног костима као одевне варијанте владара повезивала је у жељеном идејном обрасцу ауторитет круне и „замишљену заједницу”. У јавној репрезентацији српских кнегиња и краљица 19. века национални костим имао је управо такву значајну улогу, преведен у сферу њиховог свечаног орната. Путем официјелних визуелних представа и писаних извора, рад ће се бавити овом функцијом костима и његовим континуитетом у наведеном периоду.
The representation of a monarch in 19th century Europe could no longer
rely on the old system, based on the idea of divine authority and absolutism.
Royal public appearance sought different visual signs for the projection of
political authority and legitimacy. The monarch’s garb and its rhetorical
dimension as an important part of the representational strategy also required
careful consideration, in dialogue with changing political and cultural ideas.
Especially for the queens, the dress had a central role in their royal
appearance, but at the same time, reliance on the fashion and haute couture
was, in a way, a potentially unstable field. Rapid changes of fashion trends
and the essence of novelties stood against tradition and stability, much
needed to a royal political body.
One of the strategies for negotiating royal power through wardrobe was
intertwining it with the idea of a nation. As an already established practice, the
royal garb which cited parts of the national c...ostume was especially effective in
displaying the close connection between the monarch and the “imagined
community”. Such use of the national costume was the main strategy in the
public appearance of Serbian princesses and queens of the 19th century. From
the time of Princess Persida Karađorđević to Queen Natalija Obrenović, the
national costume was established as their main ceremonial attire, which
effectively produced the vision of tradition and national legitimacy. This type of
costume was the socalled
“Serbian urban costume”, which appeared among
the urban elite in the late 1820s, created as the combination of various elements
of Balkan costumes. At the time of Serbia’s emancipation from the Ottoman
Empire, this costume soon became considered national. With that notion, it
had a powerful role in the creation of Serbian princesses’ public image, giving
them the desired aura of nationhood. The strategic use of the national costume
was at the beginning of the 20th century continued with Queen Draga
Obrenović, but with the shift towards the idea of historicism. She invented her
own state robe in the form of a Serbian medieval princely costume, invoking the
national “golden age” in an attempt to enhance her royal image.
Кључне речи:
српско грађанско одело / национални костим / владарска представа / кнегиње и краљице Србије / 19. век / Serbian urban costume / national costume / royal representation / Serbian princesses and queens / 19th centuryИзвор:
Држава и политике управљања (18-20. век), 2017, 33, 279-301Издавач:
- Историјски институт Београд
Финансирање / пројекти:
- Од универзалних царстава ка националним државама. Друштвене и политичке промене у Србији и на Балкану (RS-MESTD-Basic Research (BR or ON)-177030)
Институција/група
Istorija umetnosti / History of ArtTY - CHAP AU - Ćirović, Irena PY - 2017 UR - http://reff.f.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/5616 AB - У сплету културолошких значења, одећа као исказ националног идентитета имала је моћан капацитет у сфери владарске представности. Пракса националног костима као одевне варијанте владара повезивала је у жељеном идејном обрасцу ауторитет круне и „замишљену заједницу”. У јавној репрезентацији српских кнегиња и краљица 19. века национални костим имао је управо такву значајну улогу, преведен у сферу њиховог свечаног орната. Путем официјелних визуелних представа и писаних извора, рад ће се бавити овом функцијом костима и његовим континуитетом у наведеном периоду. AB - The representation of a monarch in 19th century Europe could no longer rely on the old system, based on the idea of divine authority and absolutism. Royal public appearance sought different visual signs for the projection of political authority and legitimacy. The monarch’s garb and its rhetorical dimension as an important part of the representational strategy also required careful consideration, in dialogue with changing political and cultural ideas. Especially for the queens, the dress had a central role in their royal appearance, but at the same time, reliance on the fashion and haute couture was, in a way, a potentially unstable field. Rapid changes of fashion trends and the essence of novelties stood against tradition and stability, much needed to a royal political body. One of the strategies for negotiating royal power through wardrobe was intertwining it with the idea of a nation. As an already established practice, the royal garb which cited parts of the national costume was especially effective in displaying the close connection between the monarch and the “imagined community”. Such use of the national costume was the main strategy in the public appearance of Serbian princesses and queens of the 19th century. From the time of Princess Persida Karađorđević to Queen Natalija Obrenović, the national costume was established as their main ceremonial attire, which effectively produced the vision of tradition and national legitimacy. This type of costume was the socalled “Serbian urban costume”, which appeared among the urban elite in the late 1820s, created as the combination of various elements of Balkan costumes. At the time of Serbia’s emancipation from the Ottoman Empire, this costume soon became considered national. With that notion, it had a powerful role in the creation of Serbian princesses’ public image, giving them the desired aura of nationhood. The strategic use of the national costume was at the beginning of the 20th century continued with Queen Draga Obrenović, but with the shift towards the idea of historicism. She invented her own state robe in the form of a Serbian medieval princely costume, invoking the national “golden age” in an attempt to enhance her royal image. PB - Историјски институт Београд T2 - Држава и политике управљања (18-20. век) T1 - Између моде и нације: национални костим и репрезентација кнегиња и краљица у Србији 19. века T1 - Between Fashion and Nation: National Costume and Represetation of Princesses and Queens in 19th Century Serbia EP - 301 SP - 279 VL - 33 UR - https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_reff_5616 ER -
@inbook{ author = "Ćirović, Irena", year = "2017", abstract = "У сплету културолошких значења, одећа као исказ националног идентитета имала је моћан капацитет у сфери владарске представности. Пракса националног костима као одевне варијанте владара повезивала је у жељеном идејном обрасцу ауторитет круне и „замишљену заједницу”. У јавној репрезентацији српских кнегиња и краљица 19. века национални костим имао је управо такву значајну улогу, преведен у сферу њиховог свечаног орната. Путем официјелних визуелних представа и писаних извора, рад ће се бавити овом функцијом костима и његовим континуитетом у наведеном периоду., The representation of a monarch in 19th century Europe could no longer rely on the old system, based on the idea of divine authority and absolutism. Royal public appearance sought different visual signs for the projection of political authority and legitimacy. The monarch’s garb and its rhetorical dimension as an important part of the representational strategy also required careful consideration, in dialogue with changing political and cultural ideas. Especially for the queens, the dress had a central role in their royal appearance, but at the same time, reliance on the fashion and haute couture was, in a way, a potentially unstable field. Rapid changes of fashion trends and the essence of novelties stood against tradition and stability, much needed to a royal political body. One of the strategies for negotiating royal power through wardrobe was intertwining it with the idea of a nation. As an already established practice, the royal garb which cited parts of the national costume was especially effective in displaying the close connection between the monarch and the “imagined community”. Such use of the national costume was the main strategy in the public appearance of Serbian princesses and queens of the 19th century. From the time of Princess Persida Karađorđević to Queen Natalija Obrenović, the national costume was established as their main ceremonial attire, which effectively produced the vision of tradition and national legitimacy. This type of costume was the socalled “Serbian urban costume”, which appeared among the urban elite in the late 1820s, created as the combination of various elements of Balkan costumes. At the time of Serbia’s emancipation from the Ottoman Empire, this costume soon became considered national. With that notion, it had a powerful role in the creation of Serbian princesses’ public image, giving them the desired aura of nationhood. The strategic use of the national costume was at the beginning of the 20th century continued with Queen Draga Obrenović, but with the shift towards the idea of historicism. She invented her own state robe in the form of a Serbian medieval princely costume, invoking the national “golden age” in an attempt to enhance her royal image.", publisher = "Историјски институт Београд", journal = "Држава и политике управљања (18-20. век)", booktitle = "Између моде и нације: национални костим и репрезентација кнегиња и краљица у Србији 19. века, Between Fashion and Nation: National Costume and Represetation of Princesses and Queens in 19th Century Serbia", pages = "301-279", volume = "33", url = "https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_reff_5616" }
Ćirović, I.. (2017). Између моде и нације: национални костим и репрезентација кнегиња и краљица у Србији 19. века. in Држава и политике управљања (18-20. век) Историјски институт Београд., 33, 279-301. https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_reff_5616
Ćirović I. Између моде и нације: национални костим и репрезентација кнегиња и краљица у Србији 19. века. in Држава и политике управљања (18-20. век). 2017;33:279-301. https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_reff_5616 .
Ćirović, Irena, "Између моде и нације: национални костим и репрезентација кнегиња и краљица у Србији 19. века" in Држава и политике управљања (18-20. век), 33 (2017):279-301, https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_reff_5616 .